The Elusive Turtuk (my new cowshed) or Geology in Action

22^nd April

The hill by Hunder with ruins of
Mongolian Army fortification

I get my 6am wake up hot water for tea delivered (and use it for coffee) and attempt a hot shower – which again was of a temperature that suggested the cold water from the mountains had experienced some application of heat but my ablutions could be best described as bracing!

Since the start of the trip, there has been a work-up to not staying in Turtuk – something I had specifically requested be included in my itinerary.  It was not specifically on my final itinerary but I had printed out the confirming email saying that my local guide and driver would organise it.

Nubra Valley

So the work up involved, to start with, maybe there are no guest houses or homestays – but I have seen recent reports on the internet of people staying in them.  Perhaps they are not yet open – some phone calls made from the local office had, I think, established otherwise.  Perhaps they will not be very clean (as opposed to …?)  Perhaps the food will not be very good as there are no fresh vegetables coming into Ladakha at the moment – I lived on potato and radish curry in Bhutan for almost 3 months.  

Just more stunning scenery

Then we move on to more fundamental issues:  the village is almost entirely Shi’ite Muslims who are not very welcoming to outsiders (this is contrary to what I have read, so I translate this to they will not be welcoming to my Buddhist guide and driver)

I can stay in a homestay somewhere else – but I don’t just want to stay in a homestay, I want to stay in Turtuk.

We finally agree that we will pack our bags and leave the camp, and if a comfortable homestay can be found in Turtuk, we will stay, otherwise we will return for a second night in the camp.

colour variations in the scree slopes

As we travel further up the relatively narrow valley, we encounter, at every point, immensely colourful scree slopes on the mountain sides, scree that looks as if it is about to slide downhill at any moment.  The more solid rocks on the mountains are also vary varied in their colours and have a beauty that would be obscured if these mountains could sustain forests.

We pass a couple of small herds of yak, being moved along the road, and this gives me a very close encounter, including with with baby yaks (I wonder what are they called)

Yak nicely posed for photo

We come to a halt, about 100m up the road, the scree has slid down the mountainside – a landslide has blocked the road, and the rock fall is ongoing.  This has happened in only the last few minutes as we passed a car coming from Turtuk not long before (the driver had reported the homestay was not very clean and the food not very good!)

There is an army lorry and small bulldozer/front end loader – big boys’ toy type vehicle for moving dirt etc - on the other side of the slip – and a couple of other vehicles.  

Yak calf

Bublo takes advantage of a short stop in the falling rocks to cross to discuss the situation with the officer in charge, and returns, crossing the debris as a few more rocks start to come down.  He did a really good attempt to beat the 100m record but his style would have limited him – I don’t think hands on head is the best posture for sprinting.

The fall seems to be coming from very high up the mountain – perhaps near the top, some 3000m above us, and nothing will be done to clear the road while the fall continues.  The plan is to clear the road at 5pm.

another gratuitous mountain and river shot

We watch a couple of Boleros navigate the slide, and one small car looks as if it might, but chooses not to at the last moment.  There is a viewpoint on the road that can see dust raised further up the mountain before more rockslide hits the road, and a couple of workers are signaling stop or go, based on this.

Ok, so Turtuk is definitely not going to happen.  For those of you who want to understand the reference about my new cowshed, have a look at my Bhutan blog – travels with my brother.

More colourful scree slopes

 Plan B.  About turn – not that easy on this narrow road, but Bublu manages it.  It is suggested that I have my camel ride this afternoon – I decline, there is too much likelihood of another windy afternoon and dust storm.

We drive back past the army airfield with its separate friendly signs identifying that trespassers will be shot and/or prosecuted – in which order, one wonders. It is only a short airstrip and special Russian planes have been purchased to operate from here.

But wait, more lovely river/mountain photos

We are not going to get any further today

an impressive bit of road engineering

 At one point, as the road crosses a small chasm and is then carved out of the cliff, I do admire the expertise of those who built this road.

We explore the remains of Mongol fortifications, as well as 2 tiny temples built amongst them.  Mongol warrior remains were found during excavations for the bridge – 
including armaments – and the scientific evidence was that deaths were not caused during battle but through disease.  



When Riga first told me about the Mongolian army camp, I thought he was talking about a current facility, but could not figure out why the Mongolian army would have a base camp in Ladakha right now. 

At the bottom of this area is a prayer wall with slates with mantras inscribed in both Tibetan and Sanscrit – each has been consecrated or blessed by a lama.

As we head towards Diskit, we are flagged down by army officers; they just wanted a ride.  I guess you don’t say “no” to army officers – they thanked me when Bublo stopped to let them off

The weather was relatively still and we were able to get a better look at the sand dunes where camel rides take place

Lunch was in a small “restaurant” which was not too dirty; the food was nothing special but it is plentiful.  Second serves for my crew come upon request, included in the price – though I had given them most of my rice before starting to eat.

apricot trees in flower and snow capped peaks

At Diskit monastery, I paid the entry fee and we visited large the Buddha statue, then went to monastery – it was all locked up.  The wind picked up and the dust storm, which had been brewing in the distance, became more widespread.   We beat a retreat, pausing on the way to look at the old access to water supply: wooden ladders down the cliff face.

I attempt to buy a locally made pashmina, at a  locally owned shop, but the huge price tag of 8000 rupees is not a strong encouragement.

Colourful mountain slopes

We return to the camp and I am happy to have a bit of down time.  When the wind died down, Riga came to take me for a walk to Hunder monastery – it was closed, but it was a nice walk all the same.  A lady in traditional dress was doing her evening circumambulations of the prayer wheel and prayer wall, then she was off up the hill to do same with the chortens on hill.

Dinner was served earlier but nothing special – an attempt at a Chinese vegetable dish was a bit like eating in a very ordinary 1970s Chinese restaurant in Tasmania.  Not convinced that Indian cooks should attempt Chinese food.  After my refusal of rice pudding,  yet again, a super sweet dessert was served.  I was told the name and promptly forgot!

Diskit Gaeden Tashi Choling Monastery

 There were no other guests this evening, despite the fact they were expected – there are rumours that the pass, Khardungla, is closed.

Riga really is a good, knowledgeable guide – and this is all the more commendable for his not having ever been to school.  Raised as a nomad in Tibet, his parents refused to send him to school after the Chinese went into Tibet, he is self taught, speaks several languages and has a great memory – he has retained and used terms and pronunciations I have given him.  I have enormous respect for him.

ruins of Mongol fortifications

Mani (prayer) wall