A Dawn Ritual

25^th April

Early morning sun touches the peaks behind the accomodation

I awoke a bit before my 5:30am alarm to the delightful smell of kerosene (used for cooking in this rather remote location).  It was not as cold in my room as I thought it might have been – which was good.  However, I was not going to waste too much time in getting several extra layers on over my long thermal underwear.  5 minutes later Riga was at my door (I thought he had said 6am, but he said “no hurry but the sun will be up soon” then poured me a not very hot coffee from the thermos provided the night before.  I quickly downed a quantity of coffee, pulled on the rest of the clothes required to go outside to watch the sunrise over the lake – a “must do” at this amazing location.

Pre - sunrise across Pangong Lake

I was rugged up, a bit like a Mitchelin man, in every warm layer I had with me, and it did not pay to take off gloves for too long for photographing, but it was lovely to be there, at the side of Pangong Lake, as the sun was coming up, first touching the mountains behind us, then painting a path across the lake.  The altitude is published as being 4,400m, the GPS on my camera was reading up to 4,300m.  Whatever the exact figure, it's high and it's cold in the time before sunrise.  There is ice around the edge of the lake, as well as ice floating out in the middle of the lake. We walk for some distance before returning to the accommodation.

And the sun peeps above the mountains

Looking towards Tibet

A bucket half filled with delightfully hot water is brought for my morning ablutions and I feel very refreshed afterwards.  Breakfast is puri bajhi, the bajhi being only a spicy potato mix – vegetables of any sort are hard to get when the roads from India are still closed due to snow.

After breakfast, we head towards a location popular with Indian tourists as being the shooting location for a Bollywood blockbuster movie.  While this feature does not much excite me, there are a few migratory bird species arrived from their wintering grounds and I am able to photograph a couple, including one that Rigu identifies a a seagull.  Sounds like a seagull, behaves like a seagull but does not look like any seagull I have ever seen.  May seek a second opinion.

On our way to here we passed many campsites under development, and one, which was in the process of having its plumbing installed for the luxury tents, did rather amuse me – a row of toilets and vanity basins out in the open.

Leaving behind this beautiful lake we drive back the same way we came, once again seeing the wild horses.  We stop for some time to watch the marmots at play.  They are thin now, after their winter hibernation, but some are quite used to people (some of whom feed them, inappropriate foods, despite the signs).  I feel privileged to have seen these delightful animals in the wild.

Campsite under development - slightly surreal

We also pass herds of sheep and shepherds, some in traditional dress, going about their daily business.

The road, as it passes a particularly sandy area, shows the effect of wind-drifted sand, which, at times, completely covers the road.

Army posts are everywhere in this areas, which is so close to the border and so close to where other governments have claimed the border to be.  The strong army presence has changed the dynamic and economy of the area dramatically, some villages have 2, or more, sons from each family joined the ranks.

Local wildlife poses

The posts at the bottom and top of the passes do offer medical assistance to those in need, and Riga tells me a young Thai lady had required 1½ hours on oxygen on the way to the resort last night, and when she got to the resort, she could barely speak and had to be assisted to walk to her room. 

The roofs of many villages houses have not only animal fodder but dung on them, the animal dung being the fallback heating and cooking fuel when snow closes roads during winter.

Just another picture of this gorgeous lake

We also pass a small number of domestic horses, these, as well as all domestic and wild animals are in poor condition as there is little grass to eat.  The herd of yaks we pass is in somewhat better condition and Riga’s description of the resourcefulness of the Yak in seeking and finding food in harsh conditions really emphasizes that these animals have evolved in these conditions, not been introduced to them.

I smile, at 11am, at a milepost announcing that Leh is 100km away.  In some places this might mean a 1 hour drive.  Here….  And there is a dusting of fresh snow below yesterday’s snowline – this does not bode well.

More wildlife posing

As we drive through where there was a flood last year, depositing a  metre or more of stone debris over the area, Riga suggested it may have been caused by the breaking up of a glacial lake barrier – another example of climate change and its impact everywhere, not just on the low-lying costal areas. 

And of course, there was the sign going over Changla announcing that “Because of Global Warming, Please Beware, Avalanches Can Come Any Time”

and even more

There are quite a few nomad winter camps – small, 2-roomed stone houses.  Though few are in use any more.  Not many are still following the nomadic existence in Ladakha.

The transit of Changla pass (my camera GPS says 5420m) was relatively uneventful compared to the previous day.  Clearly I have not taken sufficient lessons in fitting chains correctly, though.  I should either choose an area wide enough for 2 vehicles and park semi diagonally across it while fitting chains, thus blocking the road for 20-30 minutes or continue until such times as the car has no more traction on the snow, then put on chains, effectively blocking traffic flow and creating a very awkward situation on a road cleared only to a single lane, but without controlled tidal flow of traffic.  

There is a road here somewhere

Marmots - just a bit too cute

My crew pulled to one side behind the first mentioned situation and fitted chains (2 today, with a bit of modification to the one that really did not fit properly) and I took the opportunity to make a small excursion behind an accessible large rock which actually screened me from traffic from any direction – a bit of luxury in this fairly barren and steep landscape. 

There was one rather unnerving moment.  We were pulled over at one of the few possible spots to do so while oncoming traffic passed, and a large truck skidded forward as it approached.  Fortunately, it gained control in time to pass safely.

Heading back towards Leh, we descend to the Indus valley and it is apparent that spring has become even more advanced here since our last passing through this area.

As we arrived back to the chaos of central Ley traffic I opted for the choice of directly to the hotel rather than lunch in the market place.  It was agreed that Rigu and I would reconvene at 4pm.  When I requested lunch, the boy looked puzzled and then asked if I would like Maggi.  Now, what sort of question is that?  Probably perfectly OK here.  

That's reasonably high altitude

I requested momo-um, ah, er, ok.  25 minutes.  50 minutes later I went in search of the kitchen, noting that Rigu appeared to have been waiting in reception for me for quite some time.  The momo would be ready in 2 minutes, so I invited Rigu to share them with me.

We then headed off for the rock and mineral museum – the exploration of which was a bit reminiscent of A night at the museum – except nothing came alive, probably a good thing given the likenesses either obvious or attributed to some of the exhibits.  There was not light at the museum – no light to the house, no light to the whole of Leh, who knows?  However, given I had a torch in my bag, Rigu negotiated access.  A small but eclectic collection of Ladakha rocks and minerals, some labeled scientifically, some labeled with reference to traditional medicinal use, some millennia old sacred clay mini-stupas made integrating the ash of deceased loved ones, some with images or likenesses attributed. 

Monastery in the Indus Valley

Then it was a bit of an uphill hike to Shanti Stupa.  I did have to tell Riga I could not keep up with his pace – a shade different to a week ago when I was being told at regular intervals to go slowly!

En route we pass some of the walled fields, one of which is being tilled in the traditional manner with a wooden plough being pulled by a zho.  Riga tells me that so many families have sold their animals in favour of purchasing a car, that when it is time to plough the fields, a family with a zho can charge 5-600 rupees a day (plus fodder) for the animal’s services.

Shanti Stupa is perched on the top of a hill and was built by the Japanese as one of a series of stupas built across the Himalayas.  It has a panoramic view of all of Ley as one circumambulates it.

Traditional ploughing of fields using Zho

Riga fills me in further on how the area is changing:  giving over of the small farmed plots to building of more tourist accommodation, taking over of common grazing areas by army camps – drying up of streams (attributed to dirty practices associated with slaughtering stock – whether these dirty practices are environmental or negatively meritous, I need to further investigate)

2 small girls pass and Riga identifies that they want to come and talk and practice their English but one is too shy.  Between us we call them over and I manage a short conversation with them, but a very cold wind has sprung up and is making me cough as I try to speak, so I say goodbye fairly soon.

Shanti Stupa 

As we finish our circumambulation, Riga points out the nearest small mountain and tells me that sometimes in winter he takes his lunch and climbs the mountain and sometimes sees ibex, barrel sheep(?) and snow leopards.  I express surprise at snow leopards so close to Leh and my surprise goes even further as his story proceeds.

Last year, there was one snow leopard that came down to the town and was found in the morning sleeping in the cow shed.  (This should amuse my brother, for reasons few others would understand).  While one animal was slightly damaged and bleeding, none were killed.  The snow leopard was simply sharing the warmth.  It had got in through an opening in the roof.  It was captured by animal officers, exhibited to the public for a few days, the taken to the mountains and released.  It did not come back.  I am not surprised, being exhibited to the public would be sufficient to put most off a repeat experience.

Leh

About 2/3 of the way back, Rigu asks if I’m ok to find my own way back, as he has quite a long walk to his rooms.  I am fine.  I am semi surprised to be let loose!

Negotiating dinner was different – I was told what I could/would have – and declined soup, declined Manchurian veg (which I’d had in Nubra – why ask and Indian cook to cook Chinese food – a bit reminiscent of bad Chinese restaurants in Australia in the 1970s.)  There was dried peas and mushrooms (tinned) and rice.  I asked about paneer – no, maybe, yes – mutter paneer.  Ok

More of Leh

So dinner came, with the addition of dhal (not quite cooked lentils) and rice pudding, which I immediately gave back.  The dried peas were still slightly on the not-quite-reconstituted side.  Overall not as good as the food has been here previously.

The early part of the evening was on again – off again with the power but hopefully it stays on long enough to recharge the camera battery. 

Negotiation of breakfast was interesting.  Would I like butter toast and jam?  No.  May I have puri bajhi like I had the other day.  No.  I can have plain parathas with pickle and curd.  Pass on the curd, settle for plain parathas with pickle.  Then would I like omelet with that?  With mushrooms or plain?