Bharal Sheep and Precious Stones

28^th April

Valley views - with piles of manure ready for cultivation

As we return from Alchi to Ley I enjoy the scenic ride, and Bublo’s slightly less hair raising speeds on the better road.  I had mentioned to Riga during breakfast that I though the driving was sometimes too fast.  The message must have been passed on.

I requested a stop at Magnetic Hill to test what happens again, and sure enough, we rolled backwards, at a speed that seemed not to match what would normally be expected, even on a gentle slope.  I would have liked to test this phenomena by trying it outside the marked area but even the small amount of other traffic may have found this challenging.

Stupas dot the hillsides

A little further down the road we came to a halt in the middle of nowhere – bharal sheep had come down from the high mountains to graze.  They were quite some way away but I tried some zoom shots on my camera, then my crew spotted another small group, closer to the road, a little further back.  We returned to this spot, but as we got out of the car, they started to move away.  I did get some half way reasonable photos and feel privileged to have seen yet another wild animal in the countryside.  Now, about the snow leopards….. I wish!

Ruins of an ancient palace

We visited another ancient monastery, Spituk Gompa, with its panoramic views from the top, including in one direction the airport, which is both civilian and military, so no photos are allowed.  We visit a number of temples, including climbing up many steps to the temple of the protector gods.

Riga has told me much about the different Buddhas and other gods, as well as the reincarnations of the important Lamas – it is a positive who’s who of Tibetan Buddhism and I think would take some time to learn, even without the time it takes to learn the teachings.

The Indus Valley

As we head back into Leh I spot another cow munching on a cardboard box - a reflection of the lack of fodder available for them

After check in at the hotel, and a short break – I decline lunch as my insides are not behaving themselves to my complete satisfaction – we head for the market place.  

A traffic jam a little way down the road evokes the suggestion that we should walk, which we do.  I need to visit the post office, and although the doors are open, we are told it is closed for lunch. 

So we wander through the main market place – this is more of a shopping mall with shops principally aimed at tourists.  Many are run by outsiders, who come in during the busy tourist season.  

Bharal Sheep

I want to only visit shops run by Ladakhis selling locally made goods – Tibetan refugees is also OK.  Further on there are small stalls selling jewellery, and while one young lady who speaks fractionally more English than the others seems to be able to accurately identify a number of semi-precious stones that I know I do have my doubts yet again at the “ruby necklace” – maybe it is just very low grade.

One lady tells me “I collect the stones myself and make the necklaces” – really?  They are very even beads.  I can believe that she strings the beads together.  

The Indus Valley from Spituk Goempa

I am told that the prices are “starting prices” – bargain prices because it is the beginning of the tourist season.  Prices can be lowered by bargaining but maybe I am not trying hard enough: my first counter offer is accepted on a pair of silver and “sapphire” earrings.

We pass by vendors selling vegetables  - limited to potatoes, radish, some deformed carrots and tired onions, and some greens – which are grown in greenhouses.  

Others are selling seeds – some in the packets we are familiar with, others sold by the gram from larger bags.

Leh main market

We also pass by a lady surreptitiously making a transaction with an army officer and Riga identifies this as probably being the sale of opium poppy products.  I wander closer to look, but assorted items disappear into the folds of her clothing.

We continue on through other market areas aimed mainly at local customers – clothing, footwear, blankets, traditional dresses.  Riga asks if I would like to buy a traditional dress – when I need to get my checked luggage down to 15kg, I don’t think so.

Evening view from my balcony

We visit one old market area that is now converted to mainly to tea shops and small cafes, mostly run by Muslims.  Riga is again somewhat derogatory about them, the cafes are not very clean – by local standards, that is saying something, and he really does not like the way they treat women.  He told me earlier about attending the wedding of a Muslim friend.  The men ate first, and when they finished, the women got what was left over.

We make a more successful visit to the post office and then proceed to another shopping area, including a market run by Tibetan refugees.  I admire the yak wool blankets and shawls, which are very soft, but once again am aware of needing to keep my luggage to a relative minimum.

I look at the jewellery – with many of the same messages as before, and negotiate the purchase of a red bead necklace – stones of some variety, possibly low grade garnet.  I have seen other garnet necklaces that are so dark they are almost brown.  This time the price can be lowered, as I am the first customer of the day!  Now, where have I heard that before, apart from Laos, Thailand ….. Though I can believe it.  There are no other visitors in this market.

An early return to the hotel – my cold is taking its toll on my energy levels.  Once again no internet!  I manage a successful text message to Tashi, confirming my Delhi accommodation and airport transfer, and eventually a phone call with the project manager (or at least a friend who speaks more English) in Dharamsala.  I will be met at the airport. I hope.

After dinner (which included pappadam, dry cooked in the tandor oven), I ask about ordering breakfast and am told it is not included.  I extract my voucher to prove it is, and choose fruit pancakes, which I am certain will not be as appetizing as they sound.