Camel Ride and Snowy Mountain Passes
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| My first camel ride |
Wake up tea came as hot water in a glass
rather than a thermos, so I requested a thermos which came in due course, along
with my water bottles filled with boiled water.
They told me that there is now hot water to
my bathroom; I was skeptical.
Two young men walked through my bedroom to check that the aqueous stuff was
actually coming through the hot water tap and said I should run it for 1-2
minutes before it was hot – and if not I could tell them and they would bring a
bucket of hot water. Given that I
did not want to walk across the campsite in my long thermal underwear, nor get
fully dressed to negotiate water for a bath, my expressed doubt brought the
offer of a bucket of hot water. My
first hot morning ablutions since I have been in India!
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| Just to add atmosphere: a herd of yaks passing by as I ride |
Over breakfast there is expressed concern
about the condition of the road – no information is available except that
yesterday’s expected guests did not arrive (we later find out that the road was
opened to traffic from Leh at 3pm) – and discussion of an alternate program
involving going directly to Pangong Lake rather than back to Leh, there being a
new road. So the plan it to
proceed (after the morning sightseeing) to the checkpoint to make a decision
from there.
My itinerary suggested that I would relish
a sumptuous breakfast this morning – not so sure about that: I decided that dry
muesli and paratha with mixed vegetable pickle was probably my best choice.
Our first stop was the sand dunes to
inspect the camels and decide upon riding. I opted for the half hour ride (R350), which would take me
into the dunes. The first camel selected did not want to go and so a second was
selected and I duly mounted and it stood up – slightly alarming in terms of
maintaining my balance. After the first 2 minutes I had my doubts about
selecting the 30-minute ride over the 15-minute ride, however, I was glad I
did. As we moved into the dunes,
with snow capped peaks on both sides and in front, and nothing but the sound of
the handler’s scuffed footsteps on the sand, I had a sense of absolute
timelessness. And aching thighs
afterwards. |
| Minimal vegetation by the dry dunes |
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| Just timeless |
A return visit to Disket Gompa was a little
more successful in terms of two of the temples being open for us to visit. This monastery is 14th
century and some of the paintings and thangkas are showing evidence of that
age. We visited the monastery
kitchen and Rigu shows me a textile made of the rougher goat hair after the
cashmere has been combed from it.
This is sometimes used as a blanket. Softness is not one of its features. I am reminded of a monastery visited in
the Greek Islands last year where a particularly monk was well known for his
self-abnegation practices.
As we were approaching the Gompa, the wind
was rising in the valley and the dust cloud starting; by the time we left, the
dust cloud had reached us. I was
very glad of the timing of my camel ride – it would be unpleasant to be caught
in the dunes in that.
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| The ladder to the original water supply at Diskit Monastery - you would not want to waste water |
At the checkpoint the sign says 16,000 ft (about
4, 900m) above sea level, but the GPS in my camera suggests only 4,600m. If
“only’ and “4,600m” can be used in the same sentence. Breathing would be OK if not for my
cold. On the way up I’d had
trouble clearing my ears – which I managed with a Sudafed tablet – shades of
some people’s diving practices to ensure clear ears!
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| Baby monks |
Chains are fitted in the mud – it would be
several kilometers before we get to snow on the road but it’s the most
convenient place to fit the chains.
And we have to wait for the road to open at 2pm to northbound
traffic. At 1:30pm trucks start to
pass, along with one Mahindra vehicle with only one chain … potential
trouble! Bublu puts the final
touches to the knots and we are off.
They did not get their noodles and tea – getting underway is more
important. I had declined the
offer of purchasing instant noodles – I figured the dried fruit, nuts and
biscuits in my bag would be healthier, and taste better.
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| Clear views as we approach Kardungla |
I was rather intrigued at the checkpoint
that, although there were public conveniences, they were locked. There were at least 30 vehicles parked
there, fitting chains etc, and once again I needed to make an excursion behind
the buildings in the snow.
Once we reach the snow on the road we are
held up 3 times by trucks which have not yet fitted chains and decide it is now
time to do so – in the middle of the road (there is nowhere else). The choice is possibly due to not being
able to proceed without chains, but each of these stops is half an hour. Travel doctors tell us to drink lots of
water at altitude, but when travelling in convoy along a road bordered by
snowploughed walls, that does provide some difficulties.
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| Another interminable halt |
Our fifth halt – again a hugely long queue
of vehicles in front. 3½ hours from the checkpoint and we have not yet reached
the pass - probably about 500m of
altitude still to go. The story
comes down the line that there is a bolero (Indian make 4 wheel drive) and a
sedan up front with no chains and they are stuck.
After about half an hour the group of men
who have been loitering behind the car (I did shoo one away as he brought his
cigarette beside my open window – electric windows and my driver has
disappeared somewhere up the line) decided to walk up and inspect the
situation. My driver returns and
reports that the bus cannot gain traction – it has chains. 5pm – the snow is not going to get any
softer.
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| The clouds clear to give lovely views as we descent from Khardangla |
Rigu returns and reports that the 2 smaller
vehicles without chains have been moved to one side and turned around to go
back down once the queued traffic has passed.
There are at least 2 more short halts as
vehicles have trouble navigating short stretches, and almost at the top Bublu
has trouble with “snow dunes” on the road.
There is no pausing at the pass today, we are
already late, so continue on but just over the pass Bublu has to stop for a
moment; the wind is driving dry snow and even he could not see where the road
was. On the top I start to get the
first hint of an altitude headache but as we are about to descend, I don’t
worry about it
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| Icicles on the roadside: some groups of icicles reminded me of the story of Merlin being imprisoned by Nimue in the cave |
The rest of the journey passes relatively
uneventfully, apart from a vehicle stopped in the middle of the road to remove
chains – as you do! At least there
was space to pass.
I try to call the hotel to order my dinner
in advance, but no response on the number I was dialing. They were pretty prompt when I got
there but I was too tired to eat much.
I did enjoy the bigger heater provided for me (while the power was on..)
and toasted my very cold feet – they had got a bit damp when I walked in the
snow during one or more of our interminable stops on the way up to the pass.
When the bringing of the oxygen cylinder
for the following day/night – Pass of 5,200m and sleeping at 4,400m is
discussed, I suggest that I probably don’t need it, I as did not need it for
the higher pass, but both Rigu and Bublo express concern so I acquiesce.
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