Haircut and more

The day dawns cloudy but clear - the pollution haze is gone

7^th June

Does having a haircut rate as an adventure?  When it costs less than a cup of coffee and has to be negotiated with a minimum of shared language:  maybe.

I’d checked with the young men who are my students where the best barbers are to be found and the recommendation was Norbulinka – a couple of kilometers or so away.  They pointed out there was a more upmarket salon closer, but I told them I wanted someone who could cut men’s hair with style rather than trim long ladies hair.

Today dawned cloudy and significantly cooler – for which everyone was thankful – and clearer – the mountains were back; for the past day or so they had been obscured by the pollution haze, which was also making the trees across the valley opposite hazy.

So after a couple of skype calls and a late breakfast of flatbread and vegetables (potato and tomato) in broth, prepared by Tashi and Kunzang, I changed and set out for a walk – taking my umbrella, more as a sunshade than for its real purpose.

I am delighted by the way that Tashi is taking on his new role of captain.  He made sure I knew who was around, who might be cooking lunch, that maybe no one would be cooking dinner, but there were fresh vegetables in the kitchen that I could cook.  I think Thupten might have had words with him about my needing to buy my own vegetables – Thupten was most indignant that I should be able to cook school purchased vegetables – he is right, but sometimes a change from the limited range of potatoes, brassicas and carrots supplied to the school is nice.

The 20 minute walk to Fatiphur via the back lanes is always rather pleasant – I usually encounter some of the blue legged lizards – no idea exactly what they are, but they are lovely, and the occasional pretty, or even spectacular, bird.  Often the domestic animals are around – the cows and goats – and there are a couple of very young kids that really are quite attractive.  I am getting to recognize many of the people who live along the lanes, and usually greet them.  Some of the houses are verging on mansion size – I assume they are for individual families (although I should remember that family groups here are probably extended) and definitely indicate considerable wealth.  Some have signs that suggest the owners are (or were) senior armed service personnel.

Then there is the hazard of crossing the Dharamsala road – sometimes more challenging than other times, depending on whether it is school pick up time or not!  The road from there up to Norbulinka is a bit steeper than the first part of my journey, and passes a couple of big schools – St Marys and Sacred Heart. I am early enough to still get a bit of shade.   After a diversion down a side road, I locate the barber described to me by the students.

The barber is eating his lunch, and I tell him its ok to finish first.  My haircut is going to cost all of 50 rupees!

Seriously "short back and sides"

He speaks little English, but we manage to establish, largely non-verbally, that the clippers will be fine for the lower part of the sides and back of my hair – with a number 3 comb.  After that is done to his satisfaction, I indicate he should take a little off the top with the scissors, perhaps a bit more comes off than I really intended….  Then he inquires if I want the back leveled with scissors – yes, and trimmed below that leveling with the razor clippers.  We’re doing ok.  We negotiated the final trim in front of and around my ears to my satisfaction.  The overall effect is not too bad.  I shall not need another cut before I return to Australia though!  After that I get a very thorough head massage!  Then another spray with water to put my hair back in the style I’d prefer it to be.

It could probably be accurately described as a “short back and sides” cut and would satisfy the strictest of headmasters of any male students dating back to the middle or before of last century!  I think it would certainly satisfy the headmaster of Kheni LSS if all male students had hair no longer than I presently have!  The boys there were expected to keep their hair very short. 

I come out and decide that rather than going further to Norbulinka and finding a café that makes excellent momo, I’d return to Fatiphur to see if the ATM would play with my card.  I could also divert for a good café latte, which, at 60 rupees, would cost more than my haircut! The first ATM did not want to play nicely – the man in the bank thought it should, but did tell me there was another bank’s atm just up the road – that one did play nicely, even though it limited my withdrawal.  Still, should be enough to last me for the next 5-6 weeks.

Then my coffee – always delightful.  As I went to pay, the menu for the restaurant upstairs was sitting on the counter.  They had peanut masala on the menu and would do it to take away.  A bit too tempting!  Actually the reality was not as good as the anticipation.  I have had better versions.

My walk back down the road rather than the lanes was pleasant.  The road follows above the river valley.  After the rain last night, and presumably more rain higher up the mountains, the river in the valley has a greatly increased flow, and is rather attractive, and I love the sound of water running down a rocky riverbed.  The use of the bank below the road as a rubbish dump needs to be overlooked, but I can set my focus on the trees and the river and the occasional open grassy river flat below and appreciate that.

Almost back at the school, walking past a small grove of pines, there is a motorbike parked in the shade – with one of the young men riders sitting cross legged almost in the middle of the road – as you do!  He jumps up and greets me and thrusts his phone in front of me with another request for me to greet – his girlfriend!